Regal Jumping Spider Caresheet and Bioactive Habitat Maintenance

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The Care and Maintenance of the Regal Jumping Spider

Phidippus regius

Difficulty Level: Beginner

The Regal Jumping Spider, Phidippus regius, is one of the most recognizable and widely kept jumping spiders in the world. Native to the southeastern United States, this species has seen a recent spike in popularity alongside Stanley Cups and NeeDoh. I am not saying that they are a useless fad, just that they have captured the hearts, minds, and attention of people who may have never considered keeping a pet spider before, and for good reason.

They are visually oriented hunters, capable of complex behaviors, problem-solving, and surprisingly interactive responses to their environment. Unlike most spiders, they do not rely on webs to catch prey. They see it, stalk it, and jump.

Natural History, Description, and Related Species

Phidippus regius belongs to the jumping spider family Salticidae and is one of the largest jumping spiders in eastern North America. The species currently has a distribution that includes the southeastern United States and parts of the Caribbean. It is especially common in Florida, though we see them as far north as West Virginia.

Adult males are usually smaller and more slender than females. Males are typically black with bold white markings and often show iridescent green or blue chelicerae. Females are usually larger, heavier-bodied, and far more variable in color, ranging from gray and tan to orange, peach, or nearly black. Adult males average about 12 mm (.5 in.) in body length, while females average about 15 mm, with both sexes showing a fairly wide size range.

What really sets this species apart is how they experience the world. Jumping spiders have some of the most advanced vision in the arthropod world. Their large forward-facing principal eyes are used for tracking prey and judging distance, while their secondary eyes help detect motion and potential threats from a wider field of view. That visual system is a major reason Phidippus regius seems so alert, curious, and responsive in captivity.

They are active daytime hunters that do not spin prey-catching webs. Instead, they build small silk retreats for sleeping, molting, and egg laying. In the wild, they are often found on shrubs, palmettos, fences, walls, and other raised surfaces where they can bask, hunt, and watch the world around them. If there is an abundance of insect prey, you will finally find a jumping spider not far away.

The species was described by C. L. Koch in 1846, and older literature includes the junior synonym Phidippus miniatus, which was later placed under P. regius.

Recommended Supplies for a Regal Jumping Spider

Because this species is arboreal and highly visual, the enclosure should emphasize height, ventilation, anchor points, and a stable but not overly wet environment.

Terra Aranea Bioactive Substrate
- You can opt for the Terra Aranea kit which comes with the substrate, biodegradables, and BioShot
Small vertical acrylic enclosure with strong ventilation
Cork bark, twigs, or climbing branches
Small artificial plants or cuttings from live plants for cover and anchor points
Fine mist sprayer
Feeding tongs or soft tools
Small water dish for larger juveniles and adults

Enclosure Size & Setup

Regal Jumping Spiders need vertical space more than floor space. They spend most of their time climbing, basking, observing, and building silk hammocks near the top of the enclosure.

Spiderlings

Enclosure: Small spiderling vial or acrylic enclosure with excellent ventilation
Substrate Depth: Thin layer of slightly moist Terra Aranea
Humidity: Moderate with light misting and good airflow
Decor: Small twig, silk anchor points, minimal clutter

Spiderlings should be kept in small, secure enclosures that make it easy for them to find prey and build a hammock near the top.

Juveniles

Enclosure: Small vertical enclosure
Substrate Depth: Thin layer of Terra Aranea
Ventilation and Humidity: Strong ventilation with light misting as needed
Decor: Cork bark, branches, small plants, web anchor points

Juveniles usually begin using the full vertical space of the enclosure and will often choose a sleeping retreat high in a corner or under a leaf.

Adults

Enclosure: Medium- Large glass or acrylic vertical enclosure with more height than floor space
Substrate Depth: Thin layer of Terra Aranea
Ventilation and Humidity: Strong cross ventilation, lightly misted enclosure walls, no stagnant air
Decor: Cork bark, branches, plant cover, multiple elevated anchor points

Avoid overly large enclosures. While adults can use more space than spiderlings, you still want a setup that makes feeding, monitoring, and maintenance easy.

Substrate & Humidity

This species does best with moderate humidity and good airflow.

Keep substrate lightly moist, not wet
Allow part of the enclosure to dry between mistings
Lightly mist one side of the enclosure or the decor so water droplets are available to drink
Avoid soaking the substrate or creating swampy conditions

Jumping spiders do not need a wet enclosure, but they do benefit from access to water droplets and a little ambient moisture. Terra Aranea works well here because it helps buffer moisture without becoming muddy or stagnant when used correctly.

Temperature & Lighting

Maintain room temperatures between 70 and 78°F
Slightly warmer daytime temperatures are fine if ventilation remains strong
No supplemental heat is required if room temperatures stay within range
Avoid heat pads and heat lamps
LED lights or fluorescent grow lights can be beneficial for live plants and help support a natural day and night cycle

Because this is a diurnal species, a regular light cycle is helpful. They are much more active, visible, and behaviorally interesting when they have proper daytime lighting.

Feeding Schedule

Feeding should always be based on abdomen size rather than a strict calendar schedule. If the abdomen is noticeably smaller or more shrunken than normal, feed more often. If the abdomen becomes overly large and swollen, cut back.

Spiderlings

Frequency: Every 3 to 4 days
Prey: Flightless fruit flies, confused flour beetles, bean beetles, very small roach nymphs
Post Molt: Wait 24 to 48 hours before feeding

Juveniles

Frequency: Every 4 to 7 days
Prey: Small crickets, bottle flies, house flies, small roaches, mealworm sections if needed
Guidelines: Feed prey no larger than the spider’s body length
Post Molt: Wait 2 to 4 days

Adults

Frequency: Every 5 to 7 days, or as needed based on body condition
Prey: Bottle flies, house flies, small to medium crickets, appropriately sized roaches
Guidelines: Avoid overfeeding adults, especially mature females being kept as display animals
Post Molt: Wait several days until they are fully hardened and active again

Because this is a visual hunter, moving prey is usually best. Flies and crickets are among the best prey for this species because they elicit a strong hunting response and encourage natural behavior.

Supplements

Jumping spiders do not require vitamin or calcium supplementation. You should, however, gutload feeder insects with fresh fruits and vegetables for at least 24 hours before feeding.

Behavior & Handling

Regal Jumping Spiders are usually calm, curious, and far less defensive than many people expect from a spider. They are much more likely to jump away or hide than bite. Their excellent vision is a big part of that. They are constantly watching and assessing what is around them.

That said, they are still delicate little animals and should not be handled unnecessarily. If you do interact with them, move slowly and work above a soft surface. A fall is a much bigger risk to them than a bite is to you.

Maintenance & Bioactive Considerations

A simple arboreal setup works beautifully for this species.

Lightly mist as needed for hydration
Remove uneaten prey and boluses
Spot clean waste as needed
Replace substrate if it becomes overly wet or fouled
Maintain strong ventilation at all times

Bioactive setups can work well for Phidippus regius, especially in planted display enclosures, but they should still be kept simple. Because this species primarily uses the upper half of the enclosure to jump around, the most important parts of the setup are still airflow, visibility, climbing structure, and safe hammock-building spots.

Common Issues

Poor Ventilation: Stagnant air is one of the fastest ways to cause problems
Excess Moisture: Overly wet conditions can lead to mold and unhealthy enclosure conditions
Dehydration: Not providing regular water droplets can be an issue, especially for spiderlings
Overfeeding: Can lead to an overly swollen abdomen and lethargy

Final Thoughts

Phidippus regius is one of those species that can completely change how someone sees spiders. They are active, intelligent, highly visual, and genuinely fun to watch. You are not just keeping a spider in a box. You are watching a tiny predator make decisions, track movement, build retreats, and interact with its environment in real time.

That is a big part of why they have become so popular. They are beginner-friendly, but they do best when you respect what makes them different. Good ventilation, a well-designed vertical enclosure, regular access to water, and appropriately sized prey go a long way. They do not need anything overly complicated, but they do need a setup built around how a jumping spider actually lives.

Written by Richard Stewart of Tarantula Collective 4/7/2026

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