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The Care and Maintenance of the Green Bottle Blue Tarantula

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The Care and Maintenance of the Green Bottle Blue Tarantula

Difficulty Level: Beginner

The Green Bottle Blue Tarantula, scientifically known as the Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens, is one of the most colorful and active species in the tarantula hobby. They are famous for their metallic blue legs, green carapace, and bright orange abdomen. They are not only visually stunning, but they are easy to care for as well. They are hardy, prolific webbers, and stay out on display most of the time, making them an excellent choice for both new and experienced keepers. If you want a vibrant tarantula that stays out in the open and is not difficult to keep, you can’t go wrong with the Green Bottle Blue Tarantula. 

Natural History and Description

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens is a monotypic species, meaning it is the only member of its genus. They are found on the Paraguaná Peninsula in northern Venezuela, where they inhabit dry scrublands and coastal deserts. These regions experience intense sun, low humidity, and sparse vegetation. In the wild, they create silk-lined retreats beneath shrubs or roots, often expanding their shelters with thick sheets of webbing. Adults can reach about 5 to 6 inches in diagonal leg span, with females living over a decade in captivity. Males mature faster and rarely live more than a few years after their ultimate molt.

Recommended Supplies for a Green Bottle Blue Tarantula

Enclosure Size & Setup

Spiderlings

Use a small enclosure like a Mini Slider Crib, Sling Crib, or 3" Tarantula Cube.
Fill about two-thirds with Terra Aranea. Keep one corner slightly damp and include a small water dish or drip water weekly. Avoid soggy substrate.

Juveniles

The enclosure should be wider than tall to prevent falls.
Fill halfway with substrate and include cork bark and branches for web anchor webbing.

Sub-Adults

Provide a hide, multiple anchor points, and fill it up about halfway with substrate.

Adults

Ideal enclosures include the Tarantula Cribs Large Slider Crib, 12" Cube, or 18" Cube.
Floor space should be three to five times the tarantula’s leg span.
Fill at least halfway with Terra Aranea substrate and provide several anchor points for heavy webbing. Limit the fall distance to 1.5 times the spider’s leg span.

Lighting, Heating & Humidity

Lighting: Tarantulas do not need UVB, but a Solar Grow LED can help live plants and maintain a consistent day and night cycle.

Heating: Maintain ambient room temperatures between 68°F and 76°F. Avoid heat lamps or under-tank heaters. If extra warmth is needed, use a thermostat-controlled heat pad on the enclosure’s side.

Humidity: Keep conditions relatively dry with good ventilation. Lightly moisten a corner for slings, but let the surface dry between waterings. Overflow the water dish occasionally for added humidity.

Substrate

Use Terra Aranea as your base. Mix in leaf litter and a small amount of sphagnum moss for structure. Add BioShot to activate bioactivity and temperate springtails to manage mold, if needed. Avoid isopods, as they may disturb a molting tarantula.

Decor & Plants

Provide a cork bark half-round or flat piece slightly larger than the spider’s leg span and partially bury it in a corner. Add leaf litter, seed pods and natural decor for a realistic habitat. Choose hardy, low-profile plants that tolerate dry soil, digging, and getting covered in webbing. Multiple anchor points encourage webbing behavior, which is a defining trait of this species, so lay some cork bark branches vertically and at angles around the enclosure.

Feeding Schedule

Spiderlings
Feed twice weekly with fruit flies, pinhead crickets, or small roach nymphs.
Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours.
After molt: wait 24 to 48 hours and ensure fangs are black before feeding.

Juveniles
Feed every 7 to 10 days with small to medium crickets or Dubia roaches.
Adjust based on the abdomen size. Feed more often if the abdomen is smaller than the carapace and less if it is larger.
After molt: wait 3 to 7 days.

Adults
Feed every 2 to 3 weeks with four to five large crickets or one large Dubia roach.
Monitor abdomen size to avoid overfeeding.
After molt: wait 7 to 14 days and confirm fangs have darkened.

Supplements
Tarantulas do not require calcium or vitamin supplements. Always gutload feeder insects with fresh fruits and vegetables or a gutload formula at least 24 hours before feeding.

Temperament

Green Bottle Blues are active, visible, and heavy webbers. They will flick urticating hairs if disturbed, but they aren’t typically defensive. They are more apt to hide in their web tunnels than to display a threat pose. Once they have settled into their new enclosure, they spend much of their time out in the open, building and maintaining their elaborate web tunnels. While generally calm, individuals can vary, and it is best to avoid unnecessary handling. Always observe behavior before opening their enclosure for maintenance or feeding.

Final Thoughts

The Green Bottle Blue Tarantula is one of those species that turns anyone who’s even mildly curious about spiders into a full-blown fan. They’re hardy, easy to care for, and never shy about showing off. Between the colors, the webbing, and how active they are, there’s always something going on in their enclosure. Keep them dry with good airflow, give them plenty of anchor points to web up, and they’ll do the rest. This species is a great example of how diverse tarantulas can be, thriving in some of the harshest, driest environments while still creating elaborate silk retreats. Whether you’re just starting out or have been keeping tarantulas for years, the Green Bottle Blue is a perfect reminder of why so many of us fell in love with the hobby in the first place.


Written by Richard from Tarantula Collective – 11/11/2025


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