How to Keep Moss Alive and THRIVING in Your Vivarium

I think we can all agree that moss looks incredible in vivarium setups. It’s lush, it’s vibrant, and it just screams, “Life thrives here!” However, moss can be tricky to care for, especially when you’re new, so if you’ve had trouble with it, you’re far from alone. This is especially the case if you have a pet reptile, since the conditions that reptiles prefer tend to be a bit less moss-friendly than for amphibians. If you struggle with moss (or just want to get started on the right foot), this is the article for you!

But first:

What IS moss?

Moss is a very small type of plant. It’s considered a plant because it has leaves and uses photosynthesis to make food from sunlight. It doesn’t have roots in the traditional sense, but it does have root-like structures. It generally has a soft, fuzzy appearance and is bright green, although yellow, brown, or purple is possible. 

Lichen is sometimes mistaken for moss, but it’s a completely different kind of organism. Lichen is a symbiosis of both fungus and algae: the algae feed the fungus, and in return, the fungus protects the algae. It’s generally fairly flat, spreads along a hard surface like rock or wood, and is green, gray, tan, orange, or yellow. Lichen does not have leaves, although sometimes it takes a branching shape that can be mistaken for a plant. It also does not have roots.

Can you tell the difference between the moss and the lichen in the photo above?

Know Your Moss

Here are some common types of moss used in terrariums, paludariums, and aquariums that you may encounter as a herp keeper:

Sheet moss: Sheet moss is a terrestrial moss that conveniently grows in thick, carpetlike sheets. This moss can be attached to terrarium décor or simply pressed into the substrate. It needs bright light and moderate to low temperatures to thrive.

Pillow moss: Pillow moss is a terrestrial moss named for the way it tends to grow in mounds that resemble a pillow. This moss is a bit needier but still flexible. It prefers medium to bright light and can be either attached to terrarium features or simply pressed into the substrate. 

Java moss: Java moss is an aquatic moss that grows in clumps with irregular arrangements of medium-length branches. This moss is very beginner-friendly, isn’t picky about light levels, can be used free-floating or attached to a substrate, as long as it’s submerged. You can purchase Java Moss at our point of sale.

Flame moss: Flame moss is a tall, aquatic moss named for the way it resembles green fire. It doesn’t require a substrate and isn’t picky about light, which makes it good for beginners. This moss must be submerged to thrive and prefers CO2 supplementation.

Taiwan moss: Taiwan moss is an aquatic moss with a fernlike appearance. This moss is fairly newbie-proof, can be used free-floating or anchored, and will stay alive at varying light levels.

Weeping moss: Weeping moss is an aquatic moss that grows in densely packed, drooping clumps with long tendrils. It can be used free-floating but is often attached to thin pieces of wood to create a treelike effect. As long as it has light it’ll be happy, but CO2 supplementation is recommended.

Spiky moss: Spiky moss is an aquatic moss named for the way it grows in an irregular, triangular pattern that gives it a “spiky” appearance. CO2 supplementation is recommended but not required, and it can be used free-floating or anchored at varying light levels.

Stringy moss: Stringy moss is an aquatic type of moss named for the very long tendrils which give it a “stringy” appearance. For best health, supplement with CO2. This moss also needs bright light and some kind of substrate or anchor.

Liverwort: Liverwort is similar enough to moss to be part of this list. It doesn’t need a substrate or particular light levels, but it can be grown out of water as long as it’s kept close to a constant source of moisture. 

The Dude offers several varieties of live, hand-propagated mosses for bioactive terrariums and paludariums. You can find caresheets for many terrarium mosses on The Dude's Blog. 

What about Spanish moss? you may be wondering. That’s actually not a moss – it’s an air plant under the genus tillandsia! Read “How to Care for Epiphytes in Vivariums: Bromeliads and Air Plants” if you’re looking to care for Spanish moss

Moss Care Tips

When you’re looking to buy moss for your reptile or amphibian’s enclosure, it’s best to purchase the moss from a sterile grower so you won’t have to clean it. You can collect your own, although it’s usually more trouble than it’s worth.

If your moss arrives in a tissue culture cup, you’ll need to remove the culture gel before planting. This is easy to do with just gentle washing or soaking in dechlorinated water. You'll want to avoid touching the moss with your bare hands if possible. Wear gloves or use tongs depending on the size of the moss piece you’re working with. If you don’t have gloves, wash your hands with soap and water and thoroughly rinse afterward. Pillow moss or sheet moss are less sensitive and only require being soaked in water to fully hydrate before being placed in the enclosure.

Plant terrestrial moss by placing it on top of a medium that absorbs water, like sphagnum moss, wood, or even pumice stone. If putting the moss on wood or stone, placing a layer of sphagnum moss underneath will help prevent drying out. Or, better yet, use an automatic misting system to meet your moss’s needs. Bio Dude bioactive-ready substrates are also appropriate. Coconut fiber, peat moss, or similar substrates won’t work. If you’re placing the moss on a soil substrate, gently press the moss into the soil so it can draw moisture from the substrate.

To plant aquatic moss, you will need a way to secure it in place on a rock or branch. You can use string or fishing line to do the job. Avoid wire or toothpicks, as these have the potential to harm your pet!

Terrestrial moss should be misted at least twice a day for the first three weeks after transplant, preferably three or more sessions per day. Automatic misting systems are great for this, or even a fogger. Make sure to use dechlorinated water for watering, preferably spring water. The chlorine in plain tap water is not good for plants, and especially not for moss.

Conclusion

What keeps moss alive:

• Being allowed to establish itself and acclimate for at least three weeks
• Lots of light, preferably from an LED plant lamp between 5000-6700K, for about 12 hours/day
• 80-90%+ relative humidity and consistently wet substrate
• Temperatures between 60-90°F
• Dechlorinated water

What kills moss:

• Drying out
• Heat
• Direct sunlight (ex: from a window)
• Removing from tissue culture (or even opening the cup!) before you’re ready to plant
• Rough handling
• Tap water
• Getting watered like a houseplant (as opposed to misting)
• Fertilizer

Written by Mariah Healey 5/20/2025 ReptiFiles.com

Header image by Christopher Jayanata from Pixabay

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