Introduction to Bioactive Terraria
Do substrates cause impaction in reptiles?
What should I expect as my bioactive terrarium progresses?
How do I drain my drainage layer?
TERRA SAHARA:
Blog: The Science Behind Terra Sahara
TERRA FIRMA:
Blog: The Science Behind Terra Firma
TERRA ARANEA:
Blog: The Science Behind Terra Aranea
TERRA FLORA:
Blog: The Science Behind Terra Flora
TERRA FAUNA:
Blog: The Science Behind Terra Fauna
Blog: The Basics of Bioshot
BioShot is the BioDude's unique microbial supplement and organic fertilizer for bioactive vivariums, and works well with all BioDude soil products. Formulated with mycorrhizal fungi and natural insect-based fertilizer to promote the efficient conversion of organic waste too nutrients easily absorbed by plant roots. The Bio Shot also contains the macronutrients necessary for healthy plant growth, including a perfect 2-4-2 balance of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium to encourage your vivarium plants to grow fuller and healthier than ever before. These nutrients are provided in safe, 100% animal based organic forms that are safe for all pet reptiles and amphibians, from dart frogs to monitor lizards, and the microbes can thrive in bone dry or wet environments.
Ingredients: Insect Frass, Worm Castings, Inert Clay, Endo Mycorrhizal Fungi strains (Rhizophagus Irregularis, Rhizophagus aggregatus, Rhizophagus proliferum, Rhizophagus clarus, Claroideoglomis etunicatum).
NOT FOR HUMAN OR ANIMAL CONSUMPTION
Each shot covers one 6 quart bag of BioDude substrate. The Dude does not recommended splitting your Bio-Shot into multiple tanks due to the precision of the measurement. Bio-Shot does not replace the need for a Hydrogrow drainage layer.
BIOVIVE:
Blog: What is BioVive?
The Dude's all new proprietary and handcrafted miracle soil revitalizer, BioVive. Throughout the life of your bioactive terrarium some specific elements and minerals are eventually depleted and not put back into the eco-system, or naturally these elements are lost via decomposition processes from your clean up crews, beneficial fungi and bacteria. The Dude's BioVive not only helps replace those essential lost nutrients, but delivers it into a form that is easily absorbed by plant roots, as well as providing a necessary driver for your essential fungal and biological processes within the soil itself. Being 100% organic and animal safe BioVive is recommend for Bioactive terraria that have been established for longer than 6 months and is recommended to use with the established BioShot for optimum results. BioVive will also inoculate the soil with beneficial microbes and bacteria that will not only improve your already occurring processes, but encouraging new strains and promote a healthier soil while consistently re-energizing your substrate.
Each BioVive bag will provide enough for up to one Bio Dude 36 quart bag. 50 grams can be used for this much substrate (36 quarts) and under. DO NOT USE with new vivariums with the BioShot as this will cause burn damage to the plants root systems This is only for terrariums that have been established for over 6 months.
This video will display and show you how we utilize the components from an old and previous enclosure to revive and reestablish your new set up!
Natural bioactivity occurs in almost every climate on earth, from the lush jungles of the Congo to bone-dry Australian deserts. These ecosystems contain unique processes to manage the buildup of organic waste. Cleaning organisms and chemical processes break down matter, and nutrients return to the soil to support new life. Through these processes, the ecosystem is kept clean and healthy.
Our specially-designed substrates were developed to support the natural drivers of bioactivity. In supporting their natural functions, we can bring authentic bioactive environments to the home vivarium. Here, we will focus on our Terra Aranea substrate and the wide-ranging conditions it replicates.
The bottom layer of your terrarium sits the bringer of life, the specialty terrarium soil known as Terra Aranea. This specialty mix created by the Dude is the staple for a living substrate for all spiders, tarantulas, scorpions, and other invertebrates. This one-of-a-kind substrate covers the need of all the biomes (from wet to dry) and not only drains, aerates and composts effectively; but prevents the harmful buildup of negative bacteria and molds, which is a common problem with invertebrate keepers. Terra Aranea also retains all burrows and hides that your inverts make, which is very important especially when you are dealing with spiders (such as trapdoor) that utilize the substrate for their evolutionary niches. I have found this substrate brings out many of the instinctual niches that many desert animals do in their daily life. Terra Aranea provides excellent organic nutrition for your vivarium by creating necessary air pockets for root development and plant health. These air pockets are also necessary for the BioShot to create a sustainable population in the vivarium. This substrate when used exactly as directed in the Dude's guide this substrate can last 10+ years in the terrarium without ever being changed. This mix should have at least a 3” layer in the terrarium. Most tarantulas however prefer deeper substrate to create their dens. Depending on the biome you are replicating, adding a small amount of water into the Aranea will be very helpful with humidity retention. Daily misting is not needed for your drier biomes, but if keeping a more humid invertebrate (such as a Goliath Bird Eater) misting daily will be effective to maintain humidity requirements for those species. You do not need a drainage layer with the Terra Aranea as long as it is not overwatered and properly maintained with the Dude’s Bio Shot.
- 35%-100*%
*Extra sphagnum can be used to achieve this will not reach the humidities alone.
Written by Mariah Healey, ReptiFiles.com
For being a clear, odorless, tasteless liquid, there sure are a lot of different kinds of water! Water is a big part of keeping reptiles and amphibians as pets, especially when you’re running a bioactive setup. The type of water that you choose to use can potentially make a big difference in your animal husbandry. So today we’re going to investigate: What type of water is best to use with reptiles and amphibians?
Tap water is pretty self-explanatory: it’s the water that flows out of the faucets in your home and comes from your city’s water supply. Depending on your area, it might be hard (contains lots of calcium and magnesium), or it might be soft (relatively free of dissolved minerals). Depending on the quality of your local water treatment, it might be quite safe for human consumption, borderline undrinkable, or somewhere in-between.
Pros: cheap, convenient, doesn’t come in bottles, may contain beneficial minerals
Cons: lots of variation in quality; chlorine, chloramines, and other contaminants; likely to leave water spots, contributes to calcium buildup in soil
Tap water is great for washing enclosure décor and accessories, and can usually be used to fill water bowls. It’s is generally safe to use for reptiles, although if you want to use it for amphibians, it’s best practice to use a high-quality water conditioner to eliminate the chlorine and chloramines if you’re using it for misting, fogging, or drinking.
Softened water is tap water that has been processed by water softening equipment. Water softeners use sodium or potassium to remove calcium and magnesium from the water. Many homes have built-in water softeners to treat their entire water supply.
Pros: reduces water spots, reduces mineral buildup in foggers/automatic misting systems
Cons: low in beneficial minerals; high in sodium, which may be detrimental to plant and animal health
Softened water is fine to use for washing enclosure décor and accessories, but it shouldn’t be used for drinking, and is likely not to be appropriate for fogging or misting.
Spring water is water that has been collected from a natural spring. This type of water is considered “pre-purified” since is has been naturally filtered through materials like limestone, sandstone, and clay. It is likely to be artificially filtered after collection to remove contaminants. Spring water is not the same as tap water, which is sometimes called “purified water.”
Pros: high in beneficial minerals, consistent standard of quality
Cons: sold in bottles (not very eco-friendly), likely to leave mineral deposits/water spots
It’s best to use the spring water that is sold in bottles, rather than spring water that may run through your tap, as the bottled stuff is more consistent in quality. This type of spring water is generally safe to use for reptiles and amphibians to drink without being treated for chlorine or chloramines. It can also be used for watering plants, misting, and fogging.
Reverse-osmosis water (also known as “RO” water or “filtered” water) is usually tap water that has been processed through a filter or series of filters to remove salts, minerals, heavy metals, chlorine, and other contaminants. It’s considered to be 99% pure.
Pros: no water spots/mineral buildup, helps keep foggers/misters free of pathogens, can be “made” at home with fairly inexpensive equipment, fairly effective at removing chloramines
Cons: beneficial minerals absent, doesn’t kill pathogens, filtering process is fairly wasteful
RO water is safe to use for reptiles and amphibians to drink without being treated for chlorine or chloramines. It can also be used for watering plants, misting, and fogging.
Although the absence of minerals is cause for concern, as long as your pet is getting mineral supplementation as a consistent part of its diet, mineral deficiency is unlikely to be a significant problem. For best results, use a mineral supplement that includes magnesium.
Distilled water is water that has been boiled, with the steam collected and condensed to remove impurities such as salts, minerals, heavy metals, etc. If an activated carbon filter is added to the unit, chlorine is also removed. This results in 99.9% pure water. The boiling stage of the process also kills pathogens.
Pros: no water spots/mineral buildup, helps keep foggers and automatic misting systems free of pathogens, can be “made” from home tap water with the right equipment, efficient filtering process
Cons: beneficial minerals absent, impurities with a lower boiling point than water not removed, less effective at removing chloramines, distilling equipment is more expensive, requires electricity to “make”
RO water is safe to use for reptiles and amphibians to drink, although it’s best practice to treat it with water conditioner as a precaution for amphibians. It can also be used for watering plants, misting, and fogging.
Although the absence of minerals is cause for concern, as long as your pet is getting mineral supplementation as a consistent part of its diet, mineral deficiency is unlikely to be a significant problem. For best results, use a mineral supplement that includes magnesium.
Each type of water has its pros and cons. Consider your needs specific to your pet and the type of water you have available, and make the decision that is best for you and your situation.
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The Bio Dude has created a new product to help put back the essential fungai, bacteria and minerals needed to keep your bioactive terrarium properly functioning for the life of your animal. Over your terrariums life span the plants and clean up crews can deplete essential minerals, nutrients and elements faster than the animals abd biological process’ can put it back into the soil. While this doesn't hurt the enclosure immediately, it can create a bad soil quality over time, not giving your plants and substrate the best health they could have for long term success.
BioVive is handcrafted and completely organic. Being 100% animal safe and can be used for any biome the Dude’s soil revitalizer is designed to be used in terrariums that have been established for longer than 6 months. It is important to use this product only after the terrarium has been established and running for over 6 months as it contains more nitrogen than Bioshot and can cause plant root burn and could damage your plants.
Adding BioVive will work with the existing microbiological process’ and help reinforce the BioShot put into the terrariums substrate at the beginning of the bioactive terrarium build. The BioVive will help encourage new bacteria growth among the existing bacterial and fungi processes, thus promoting healthier soil for your plants while re-establishing those lost elements for essential Nitrification and other essential backbone process’ for bioactive terrariums. It is recommended to use the BioVive once every 6 months.
The main essential minerals added back inside the enclosure with BioVive include:
-Calcium
As the Clean up crew reproduces they will be the main source of calcium depletion, More so the isopods as it's a big part of their diet. BioVive helps give back just enough calcium for the Clean up crew to stay established, as well as giving the soil what it needs to continue cycling for the plants. It is also great for Millipedes, Earwigs and other types of CUC.
-Nitrogen
Nitrogen (very slow release) - This is important to prevent burning of the plants, while ensuring the plants get enough food for growth, development and healthy root systems. This is a key element for a healthy terrarium.
-Magnesium Sulfate
Magnesium sulfate helps maintain PH level while the soil cycles. It also helps the Nitrogen inside the Biovive to be a slow release to prevent plant root burn.
-Potassium
Potassium is a part of the CO2 process needed for plants due to photosynthesis. As the plants use the potassium in the soil to grow it will need to be replaced so they can continue to flourish, making themselves the best hiding and climbing spots for your animals.
-Phosphorus
Being that phosphorus has very specific requirements for use there is JUST the right amount inside the BioVive for plants to be able to absorb it, to make it work and make your green thumb that much bigger.
-Mycorrhizal fungi
As this fungi is attracted to plant roots through a symbiotic relationship, they break down organic matter and provide plants with more water to be able to absorb the nutrients easier.
To Use
Disperse the BioVive throughout the top level of the substrate over the bioactive substrate and biodegradables. Mix in through the soil gently. As you continue to care for the enclosure with spraying and or daily misting through a system, and as the Clean up crew moves and travels throughout the enclosure the BioVive will sift through the lower levels of the soil mixing in and dispersing it as the soil cycles naturally.
The Bio Dude — December 2020
Written by Mariah Healey, ReptiFIles
Bioactive enclosures are great. Really great, actually. They create a more naturalistic environment for your pet reptile while reducing some of the maintenance and expense for you long-term. But let’s be honest — bioactive is complicated, and comes with its own set of challenges that many people neglect to consider in light of the benefits.
For example, if you don’t install your drainage properly and you have a tropical setup, your substrate will flood, turn septic, and develop an unpleasant odor.
Or, if you don’t routinely add bioactive-friendly fertilizers like BioVive into your substrate, the soil will lose its nutritive value and the plants’ and CUC’s health will decline, decreasing the attractiveness and functionality of your setup.
Or, if you don’t remove feces regularly, you risk creating a booming population of parasites and germs in your setup, potentially decreasing your pet’s health rather than increasing it.
Biosecurity is one of those challenges. If you neglect biosecurity, you can introduce harmful bugs and germs into your pet’s environment that can hurt it or make it seriously ill. Here’s what you need to know as a bioactive keeper.
What is biosecurity?
The Oxford definition is biosecurity is “procedures intended to protect humans or animals against disease or harmful biological agents”. Biosecurity protocols are used in agriculture to protect farms from disastrous disease outbreaks that can wipe out millions of livestock or endanger human health. Biosecurity protocols are also used to prevent foreign plants and wildlife from taking root in and disrupting local ecosystems.
They can also be used to keep your pet healthy and prolong the longevity of your bioactive vivarium.
Why is biosecurity important to bioactive setups?
Let’s take a step back and ask ourselves what makes a bioactive vivarium work. Simply speaking, in order to create a functional mini-ecosystem, you need the right balance of beneficial bacteria, fungi, invertebrates, and other microfauna, as well as plants. When you intentionally add all of these factors to a closed environment, you control the balance of the ecosystem.
But when you add the wrong factors — especially if it’s by accident — the balance of the ecosystem gets thrown off, introducing disease and potentially completely crashing the setup.
Harmful microfauna usually get introduced to a setup when the keeper unwittingly adds something that is carrying them. This usually happens when the keeper picks something up from outdoors and adds it to their bioactive setup — this can be CUC critters, soil, wood, rocks, plants, etc. Of course, these things probably carry good microfauna, too (which is why you hear some people telling you not to treat things that have been collected outdoors) but that doesn’t cancel out the bad stuff.
Practicing good biosecurity is especially important for protecting your pet from deadly diseases present in the wild, such as chytrid (amphibian fungal disease) and Snake Fungal Disease.
How to improve your biosecurity
Conclusion
Using found materials is a great way to save money when setting up a bioactive enclosure. However, if you don’t take the right precautions, you’ll end up having to face expensive vet bills and potentially have to euthanize your pet (or a significant portion of your collection) because you introduced a deadly disease.
Why take that risk? Be a responsible bioactive herp keeper. Practice biosecurity.
Image by Kira Hoffmann from Pixabay.
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Written by: Reece Buck and Joshua Halter
On planet Earth, there are several chemical cycles that occur naturally and are essential for all life on Earth. One of those cycles is the nitrogen cycle. Both flora and fauna are integral cogs with this process. In this article we will discuss how this process works within your Bio Dude bioactive enclosures, as well as touch base on how certain aspects of the cycle are disrupted in a non-bioactive enclosure.
First, let us look at the overall cycle and break it down into its four major parts. The nitrogen cycle is initiated with nitrogen, which is available in mass quantity within the atmosphere. Bacteria intake this free-flowing atmospheric nitrogen through a process called nitrogen fixation. Once nitrogen goes through fixation it becomes ammonia, this is utilized by plants and animals. Once consumed the ammonia is broken down. From there it can be either metabolized by the organism, or excreted in the form of urate within urine. Urates are the white clump of waste material excreted by your reptile, commonly attached to feces. That concentrated ammonia, or organic nitrogen, is then broken down further by different bacterias. The final step is being released back into the atmosphere or environment as gaseous nitrogen.
The abovementioned process is what happens on a global scale. When we create a bioactive enclosure for our reptiles and amphibians, we are creating this same cycle on a micro-biological scale. Most, if not all of the nitrogen cycle occurs at the microscopic and atomic level via decomposers. Within the BioDude’s bioactive terraria our decomposers come in the form of the BioShot. The BioShot contains both nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. Ecosystems depend on these metabolically adaptable aerobic bacteria and fungi for regulation and recycling of nutrients to maintain homeostasis within the biome. The nitrifying bacteria cleave to aspects of the flora, such as the elements within the vascular bundle. During the process of cellular respiration these bacteria aid flora in the creation of complex molecules such as ammonia. Denitrifying bacteria cleave to the root system of flora and account for 10-15% of the bacterial population within the soil. These denitrifying bacteria are responsible for consuming any urate left within your enclosure, breaking the organic nitrogen or ammonia back into nitrogen via a process called hydrolysis. These denitrifying bacteria also decompose the biodegradables such as leaf litter, sphagnum moss, palm bark, cork bark, woods, and other organic matter. One of the key players of biodegradable decomposition is arbuscular mycorrhiza, which aid in host nutrient uptake of key nutrients such as nitrogen. Since nitrogen is a limiting nutrient, there is not much produced within natural nitrogen process of flora. These bacteria allow for nutrient caching which promotes growth of flora and to some extent fauna.
Within a bioactive setup, all biological and chemical elements are present for these processes to occur. Unfortunately, in a non-bioactive setup key elements of the process are missing, namely the bacteria and flora that are responsible for transmogrifying nitrogen. Since these elements are missing human intervention is necessary to maintain fauna health. In a non-bioactive enclosure there are no bacteria to breakdown feces and urate. While utilizing small clean up crews are very beneficial, they do not always provide everything your enclosure needs to thrive. As a result, allowing build up in a soil matrix of ammonia within the urate will leech out due to humidity levels within the soil. Without proper soil aeration anaerobic bacteria arise. Without the presence of flora, you do not have a processor of atmospheric nitrogen to convert it into organic consumable nitrogen usually, in the form of ammonia. Squamates cannot survive in an environment saturated with ammonia. Issues such as respiratory infections, fungal infections, eye infections, shedding issues, death and other issues can arise due to a toxic buildup of ammonia.
Providing your terraria the ability to function and thrive is a key component for successful husbandry practices of keeping reptiles and amphibians as pets. The nitrogen cycle, while complex, is vital to all living organisms. As reptile enthusiasts it is our responsibility to provide the best care, rather than the basic care using research driven practices and techniques for some of the most unique and diverse animals on the planet.
References
Casella, S., & Payne, W. J. (1996). Potential of denitrifiers for soil environment protection. FEMS Microbiology Letters,104, 1-8.
Gui, H., Hyde, K., Xu, J., & Mortimer, P. (2017). Arbuscular mycorrhiza enhance the rate of litter decomposition while inhibiting soil microbial community development. Scientific Reports,1-10.
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Bioactive vivaria are a new and constantly improving way of keeping captive reptiles and amphibians. Over the years keepers have, through trial and error, developed suitable soils and selected the best, most effective microfauna to act as a clean-up crew in our vivariums. We at The BioDude have been at the forefront of innovations in bioactive products, but throughout the years that keepers have been using bioactive setups, there has always been a small, but crucial, gap in the cycle of nutrients that is carried out in our animal’s homes.
While the microfaunal arthropods further process the waste produced by our pets, at the end of the day it is still waste, simply smaller and more finely processed. In nature, microbial life such as bacteria and fungus takes this microscopic waste and breaks it down into its base chemical compounds and elements, which are easily taken up and used by plants for growth. In captivity thus far, there has been no alternative to just setting everything up and letting bacteria colonize our vivariums on their own. There are several problems with this, however. First, the bacteria found in our homes will likely be very different from those found in nature, and while they may perform similar functions, they are neither as efficient nor as diverse as the forms found in the wild. Secondly, this empty niche can open the door for potentially harmful microbes to establish themselves before anything else, leading to higher concentrations of these organisms than what would be found in nature. Molds, bacteriums with harmful waste substances, and potentially pathogenic organisms come to mind. Lastly, since this means your plants would have trouble absorbing nutrients in your vivarium, they often would grow slower and remain less healthy. Many vivarium plants were pale, unable to support as much weight, and otherwise struggling to thrive.
Up until now, there has been no readily available way of seeding your vivarium with better strains of microbes besides going outside to collect unsterilized soil and leaves. This is obviously not ideal, as it runs the risk of bringing in parasites or diseases such as snake mites or chytrid fungus. You could also inadvertently introduce predator mites, which would promptly eat your microfauna and break the cycle of bioactivity in your vivarium. It was also difficult to fertilize your plants at all since care had to be taken not to accidentally poison your pets in the process, as many commercially available fertilizers are quite toxic.
This is where we come in. Here at The BioDude, we have been working tirelessly to come up with a solution that was practical, safe, and easily produced and distributed to our customers. With the BioShot, this has finally become a reality.
First, we use several strains of decomposing bacteria that break down a wide range of waste substances and can survive in widely varying conditions. Their tolerance of various soil conditions means the bioshot will work just as well in a Terra Flora setup as they will in a Terra Sahara setup. These bacteria have also been selected because they are fast-acting and extremely efficient, and produce no waste products that may harm your animals.
Next, we use a number of species of mycorrizal fungi. These do not act as decomposers at all like traditional fungi, so many would question why they would help in this context. But in reality, these fungi are invaluable to the health of the plants in your terrarium. They form symbiotic relationships with the roots of your plants, increasing their surface area by hundreds or thousands of times. This wider network of absorption lets your plants take in much more nutrition than they would otherwise. These fungi have also been shown to increase a plant’s resistance to drought, disease, and parasites. Most plants form these relationships with the fungus, and some are entirely dependent on them.
Lastly, we use a widespread species of archaea capable of surviving under almost any conditions, which is even faster acting than the various bacteria species. It will take up nearly any waste it finds, converting it into compounds easily absorbed by the plants in your vivarium. The archaea may also survive in waterlogged environments where anaerobic bacteria would otherwise start to take hold. Anaerobic sulfate-reducing bacteria use sulfate instead of oxygen to carry out respiration, and produce hydrogen sulfide gas as a waste product. This is exceedingly dangerous to your pets, and is why a drainage layer must always be used in wet environments, especially where there is minimal ventilation such as in dart frog terrariums. Our hope is that, in the event that water builds up past the drainage layer, the archaea established in the soil will outcompete any anaerobic bacteria that try to take hold, reducing the risk of hydrogen sulfide being produced in your tank until the excess water is drained. We would like to stress that this product is not a long-term solution to this problem, and does not replace the need for a proper HydroGrow drainage layer in any humid vivarium.
Together, these microbes work tirelessly alongside your microfauna to keep your vivarium cleaner, healthier, and more beautiful than ever before. To further aid in the growth of your vivarium plants, we have also included a number of safe, organic fertilizers to keep your plants looking their best without compromising the health of your animals, since animal waste alone may not fulfill all the nutritional requirements of your plants. These natural fertilizers have been blended to provide a perfect 4-4-4 percentage balance of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, as well as the other macronutrients vital to healthy plant growth.
We have seen incredible improvements in our own bioactive vivariums since the addition of the BioShot, and we are excited to finally make those improvements available to our customers. Add the BioShot to your next bioactive kit, and see the difference for yourself!]]>
Natural bioactivity occurs in almost every climate on earth, from the lush jungles of the Congo to bone-dry Australian deserts. These ecosystems contain unique processes to manage the buildup of organic waste. Cleaning organisms and chemical processes break down matter, and nutrients return to the soil to support new life. Through these processes, the ecosystem is kept clean and healthy.
Our specially-designed substrates were developed to support the natural drivers of bioactivity. In supporting their natural functions, we can bring authentic bioactive environments to the home vivarium. Here, we will focus on our Terra Sahara substrate and the arid to semi-arid conditions it replicates.
Terra Sahara replicates the rocky, sandy soil found in most of the world's deserts and arid scrublands. Arid enclosures can be difficult to make bioactive, simply because the soil type and lack of available moisture makes it hard for a high population of decomposing microbes and microfauna to establish themselves. The soil also must be able to support the burrows and tunnels that most reptiles use to protect themselves from the dry air and the heat of the desert sun, adding another layer of complexity to the task.
Our Terra Sahara makes this usually troublesome task easy for even the most novice reptile keeper, allowing you to create a beautiful, self-cleaning desert landscape for your reptile to call its own. The substrate holds burrows flawlessly and drains water easily to provide a suitable environment for desert-dwelling plants such as succulents and cacti. The extensive root systems of these plants provide structure to your reptile's burrows, making it easier for them to hold up in the long run. Terra Sahara does not replicate loose sand deserts but rather the dried, rocky terrain inhabited by most common pet reptiles, including Leopard Geckos and Bearded Dragons. Although many outmoded keeping philosophies warn of impaction being caused by loose substrates, we now know that impaction of the gastrointestinal tract is very rare in otherwise healthy animals, and is nearly always a side-effect of an animal being dehydrated, not having access to sufficient heat, or another separate health issue that makes the animal vulnerable.
Although the top inch or two of the substrate layer ought to be quite dry, below that ought to contain a small amount of moisture. This prevents the microfauna from drying out and keeps a high population of beneficial microbial life alive under the soil. Desert environments still rely on springtails, isopods, and other small arthropods, all collectively known as microfauna, as the initial stage of decomposition, but most of the heavy lifting is done by microscopic life such as bacteria and fungi to finish the conversion of feces back into nutrients in the soil. These microbes can more easily withstand the heat extremes and the dry environment, and are able to build up a high enough population to completely dispose of waste, unlike the microfauna alone. Microbial life will eventually establish itself in your cage without intervention, but in the first few months some spot cleaning may be necessary until your vivarium matures enough to handle the waste output. Once this has been occurred, cleaning should not be necessary except in select cases, usually with very large species.
The slight amount of moisture in the deeper part of the substrate also helps to keep your animals well-hydrated. In the wild, reptiles dig burrows to hide not only from predators and the harsh sun, but from the dry air outside. Breathing dry air over a prolonged period of time will eventually lead to dehydration, as moisture in the lungs is released into the air via osmosis and exhaled as water vapor. This phenomenon is visible in colder weather, when we can see the water vapor condensing as we breathe it out. In warmer weather it is invisible, but you can still feel the moisture if you exhale into a cupped hand. For us, this is just a trivial facet of our biology. For desert-dwelling animals, however, every drop is precious, and any lost water may be the difference between life and death The moisture in the soil ensures that their burrows actually stay quite humid. The deeper they go, the more humid the air becomes. This humidity is their saving grace, and although it does not allow them to regain any moisture unless it condenses into liquid water, it helps minimize the amount of moisture lost by breathing. The more humid the air is, the less water vapor it can absorb from their lungs, and the less water is taken from them. This is why nearly all desert animals live in burrows, and it is why it is so important to provide them with burrows in captivity. Keepers have been doing this with leopard geckos for quite some time via moss-filled 'humid hides'. This simply takes it one step further by allowing them to excavate their own burrows, meaning they have more control over the temperature and humidity than they otherwise would.
Providing humid burrows to all desert-dwelling reptiles will provide a source of exercise, ensure perfect sheds and prevent chronic dehydration, and will dramatically improve your pet reptile's health and longevity.
Because Terra Sahara is used in dry environments, no drainage layer is necessary. Simply take care that you do not add too much water to the soil. We do not recommend the use of Terra Sahara if the animal in question has any existing health issues that may put them at risk of becoming impacted.
- 15%-40%
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Natural bioactivity occurs in almost every climate on earth, from the lush jungles of the Congo to bone-dry Australian deserts. These ecosystems contain unique processes to manage the buildup of organic waste. Cleaning organisms and chemical processes break down matter, and nutrients return to the soil to support new life. Through these processes, the ecosystem is kept clean and healthy.
Our specially-designed substrates were developed to support the natural drivers of bioactivity. In supporting their natural functions, we can bring authentic bioactive environments to the home vivarium. Here, we will focus on our Terra Firma substrate and the wide-ranging conditions it replicates.
Terra Firma is designed to replicate the silty soil that many reptile and amphibian species dig burrows in, while still providing a suitable substrate for springtails and isopods, the small arthropods known as microfauna that form the basis of your cleaner crew. This soil type occurs in a wide variety of habitats, from seasonal savannas and semiarid regions to coastal rainforests and along riverbanks. As such, it is suitable for use in a wide range of vivarium types, although it works best in enclosures with a humidity range of 50-75%, kept dry on the surface and moist underneath. Terra Firma holds burrows flawlessly, which many species use to hide from predators or the extremes of nature such as high heat or low humidity during the dry season. Species that will make the most of this substrate include many snakes, large lizards such as monitors or tegus, and any other reptiles or amphibians that dig burrows.
Terra Firma provides an excellent medium for most terrarium plants to grow in, and the root systems of those plants in turn provide structure and support to your pet's burrows. The bioactivity of these slightly dry environments relies heavily on the microfauna for decomposition, but some of the burden also falls on beneficial bacteria, fungi, and other microbial organisms that will establish themselves in the soil over time. The drier conditions and slower buildup of these beneficial microbes may make occasional spot-cleaning a necessity for the first few weeks or months while your microfauna and microbes establish themselves in the soil, especially for animals with larger, well-processed feces such as pythons and boas. Eventually, however, this cleaning should become unnecessary as your vivarium matures and the decomposers take over.
Since most burrowing species would dig right past a substrate barrier and into the drainage layer, Terra Firma is designed to be used without one. Most of the environments it would be used in are not wet enough to warrant any concern about excess water buildup or any resultant anaerobic bacterial growth. If it is used for environments with very high humidity it will still work as a bioactive substrate, but is not as user-friendly. Care must be taken that it is not watered too much, and turning over or stirring the substrate may be a good idea to ensure that oxygen reaches the soil on the bottom. If the species you are housing is not one that burrows in sandy soil, we strongly advise using our Terra Flora or Terra Fauna instead, with HydroGrow as a drainage layer, since this drastically reduces the risk of user error.
- 30%-80*%
*Spikes of 80; not a constant. Extra sphagnum can be used to achieve this.
Natural bioactivity occurs in almost every climate on earth, from the lush jungles of the Congo to bone-dry Australian deserts. These ecosystems contain unique processes to manage the buildup of organic waste. Cleaning organisms and chemical processes break down matter, and nutrients return to the soil to support new life. Through these processes, the ecosystem is kept clean and healthy.
Our specially-designed substrates were developed to support the natural drivers of bioactivity. In supporting their natural functions, we can bring authentic bioactive environments to the home vivarium. Here, we will focus on our Terra Fauna substrate and the humid, less-soggy conditions replicates.
Terra Fauna is designed to replicate the conditions found in the tropical rainforests encircling the Earth's equator. Like our Terra Flora, it is designed to retain moisture and keep the humidity in your vivarium quite high, but unlike the Terra Flora, it is designed for slightly less waterlogged conditions, like those found in less dense rainforests where everything is still just as humid, but a good deal of sunlight penetrates to the forest floor and prevents surfaces from remaining constantly wet. These environments are home to more reptilian species, which rely on the humidity to avoid dehydration as the amphibians do, but also need access to UVB lighting via direct sunlight and can have issues with skin infections if their environment is constantly wet, and thus require more ventilation and fresh air flow.
A terrarium with Terra Fauna will rely small arthropods, called springtails and isopods, to carry out the process of decomposition and form your cleaner crew. These arthropods, collectively referred to as microfauna, will often take refuge deep in the moist soil during the day, only coming out at night to consume the organic wastes that make up their diet.
Terra Fauna is designed to drain well, just like the Terra Flora, but holds more moisture and has fewer air pockets to prevent the soil and the air from drying out too much, due to the warmer temperatures and increased ventilation that these vivariums often have. These environments are still wet enough to require a drainage layer of our HydroGrow to allow any excess water to drain out of the soil and prevent anaerobic bacterial growth or root rot in your plants, but unlike a setup with Terra Flora, the excess water will rarely, if ever, need to be removed as it builds up, since there should not be as much of it. The HydroGrow will also help wick water up into the Terra Fauna if it begins to dry out too much, ensuring that the soil stays wet enough to maintain the vivarium's humidity and give the microfauna enough water to avoid drying out. Misting the cage once or twice a day will still be necessary to provide the animals with water droplets to drink from and keep the soil sufficiently moist.
- 45-80*%
*Spikes of 80; not a constant.
Natural bioactivity occurs in almost every climate on earth, from the lush jungles of the Congo to bone-dry Australian deserts. These ecosystems contain unique processes to manage the buildup of organic waste. Cleaning organisms and chemical processes break down matter, and nutrients return to the soil to support new life. Through these processes, the ecosystem is kept clean and healthy.
Our specially-designed substrates were developed to support the natural drivers of bioactivity. In supporting their natural functions, we can bring authentic bioactive environments to the home vivarium. Here, we will focus on our Terra Flora substrate and the extremely wet and humid conditions it replicates.
Terra Flora is designed for use replicating the tropical rainforests found around the equator, where water and moisture are a constant. These environments rely heavily on small arthropods such as springtails and isopods, which break down the waste to a more manageable level, and microbes merely do a little tidying up afterwards. These arthropods form the basis of your cleaner crew, and are collectively referred to as microfauna.
Of course in these environments, everything is wet, nearly every second of every day. As such, there are some natural hurdles to overcome when recreating this in captivity in a safe manner. By far the most important is the challenge posed by undesired microbial growth. As one can imagine, such a wet environment is a haven for all sorts of bacteria, and if the soil is not suitable, dangerous varieties can very quickly proliferate and pose a danger to the microfauna and your pets.
The most important thing about our Terra Flora is that although it stays moist and keeps the tank humid, any excess water drains down through the soil and into your HydroGrow drainage layer, where it cannot foster the growth of anaerobic bacteria. If there is ever liquid water stagnating in the soil itself, these bacteria can quickly take over, and the sulfurous compounds they produce can kill your cleaner crew and pose a danger to your animals, especially in an environment with little or no ventilation as is required by poison dart frogs and many other amphibians.
This well-draining soil, and the accompanying drainage layer, is also extremely important for plants taking root in the soil, as too much water can starve the plant's roots of oxygen, and different varieties of bacteria can cause root rot, killing the plants.
Many customers in the past have asked if substrates such as Eco-Earth are suitable for these environments, and unfortunately they really just aren't. They compress and retain too much water, and even if you have a drainage layer these substrates will foster anaerobic bacterial growth and root rot, since fresh oxygen cannot circulate through the soil. All this inevitably leads to the crash of the vivarium's bioactivity, and makes it difficult to keep plants alive. If it goes on long enough, these substrates can most definitely pose a danger to the animals living on them, as they simply can't be kept wet enough in a safe manner.
Our Terra Flora, coupled with our HydroGrow and an appropriate layer of BioDegradables, eliminates the risks described above. Excess liquid water drains out of the soil very rapidly, practically running right through it. The large air pockets contained in the soil provide aeration and let oxygen flow throughout the soil, letting even the most finicky and delicate plant species flourish. These air pockets also provide a lot of additional space for the microfauna, making it easy to sustain a very high population of springtails and isopods, enough to keep your tank spotless while providing an additional source of food for species that will take advantage of it, such as dart frogs. Furthermore, this substrate is very long-lasting and will not break down and need to be replaced in a few years. We have maintained dart frog tanks for more than a decade on this substrate, without ever needing to replace anything but the BioDegradables on the surface.
- 70%-100%